The three reached the top of the 7th pitch of Warpy Moople (a 5.9+, 8-pitch climb) late in the day; the last pitch is much easier (5.6). Glen had led all 7 pitches to this point, with Jane second and Carlos third, the order they had used 2 weeks before on a shorter climb. Carlos led the last pitch, mostly running it out -- he placed only two pieces of pro, a #7 stopper and a 0.5 Flex Friend. On arriving at the top he did not set up an anchor right away, but yelled "off belay" and, standing on the lip, removed his helmet, lead rack, and Camelback water system and placed them behind the lip. Jane was belaying him and took him off, then untied herself from the anchors. Just then, Carlos stumbled and fell off the top, to be stopped by the Friend after a long fall (at least 150ft); the Friend was badly mangled. (Carlos had been carrying a heavy pack as third and climbing close to his technical limit; he had also been on call the night before at the hospital and thus had not slept for 36 hours. Rescue workers and the medical team found that Carlos' body bore marks of two separate violent falls.) Since Jane was not attached to the anchors, she was violently pulled up over 50 ft and hit her head hard enough to smash her bicycle helmet (pieces of the helmet foam padding were found midway up the last pitch). Glen was left alone unhurt at the 7th belay, in the dark, with his two friends unconscious, hanging off the other rope, one at each end. He undid the anchors (the only pieces he had), climbed up to Jane, belaying himself in reverse on the rope joining them, then rigged a Z-ratchet (a sling wrapped around the rope and held to the wall with a Camalot, to serve as a ratchet to pull loads; this is a setup that he had used several times in the past) on Jane's rope to lower her off (and raise Carlos). In the dark, he did not notice that the rope connecting Jane to Carlos was held only by one badly damaged Friend and one poor nut; the repeated pulls needed to raise Carlos dislodged the Friend, the nut slipped out (it had abrasion marks, but no wire distortion or signs of stress), and the entire load (on a rope with no stretch left and fully tightened knots) fell on the Camalot holding the ratchet, which gave out, precipitating all three to the bottom of the cliff 600ft below.