字幕記錄


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On today's episode I'm going to show you a few tricks on how to properly assemble
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your ender 3 3d printer right here at filament friday this video is brought to
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you by these patreon supporters the first thing I recommend is take
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everything out of the box lay it out on the table so you can see it and then you
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can easily assemble it you don't want to be pulling stuff out of the box you may
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lose something or grab the wrong part it does come with an illustrated manual
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it's really just one sheet with a bunch of decent pictures but the most
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important is it gives you a picture of all the parts that you need to assemble
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it so you can verify you got everything out of the box and you're ready to build
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the first thing you want to look at is the main assembly which is the bed or
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the base of your 3d printer it also has the hot end connected to the electronics
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but you want to check the bed to see if it's loose like this one that was the
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best time to adjust this bed before you assemble anything else to it so we're
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just gonna flip this over like this get the electronics to the side and pull
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this back and now we can get access to the two wheels that we need to tighten
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if I move this you can see it's really wobbly and these are the two adjustable
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wheels they're on eccentric nuts so as we turn those the center will actually
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offset into the rail they give you a wrench to fit those just put it on and
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turn it until it's tight not too tight but you'll feel it snug up and you want
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to go counterclockwise to do this and then once those are tight it slides
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pretty easy back and forth and no wobble so we're ready to go to the next step so
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I flipped the bed back over and the first thing I recommend you do is take
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this top material off this is actually your printing bed and it's held on by
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four clips just take those clips off and you can set all this aside we're now to
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step one of the manuals so everything I showed you was just suggestions and they
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recommend you mount these two uprights but this is where I differ
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I say you mount only one upright to start and the one on the
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electronic side because this is the main upright that the arm will mount to that
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the stepper motor will go to this needs to be perfectly straight so we're going
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to use a square to mount this and focus all assembly here this upright is just a
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secondary operate so we're gonna set that aside for now I got the base on the
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side and this is the arm I want to mount to it the one with the two holes at the
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bottom is the arm you want to put on this side of the base and there's two
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screws that go on the bottom there m5 forty-fives you'll find them in your
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pack of screws and you want to hand tighten them into the aluminum extrusion
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don't use the wrench yet just hand tighten them and then as they get a
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little stiffer you can use the wrench to turn them in a little bit further but
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you want to keep this loose so we can put a square out here and make sure
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everything is perfectly square as we tighten it up this is where it's nice to
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have the tools I'm a big speed square that I've got a clamped to the upright
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and also to the base so this way it's 90 degrees perfectly this direction and
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then as far as the side-to-side I took one of the aluminum extrusions that came
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with it and I clamped it to the side so it lines up with the bass and the side
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of this so it should be 90 degrees on this side as well so now that
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everything's clamped up I can just tighten those two screws and this
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upright should be perfect next I recommend installing the stepper motor
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and this requires 2 m4 screws and you'll find those in a bag and this is totally
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out of order from the manual but I recommend you install this put the two
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screws in but don't tighten them up just get them to where they're in place and
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then this motor isn't going anywhere but it's loose and then we're gonna install
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the stop switch and it's got two t- nuts and it's got a little lip that
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stops it from going too far line up the t-nuts slide it down to that lip and
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then I recommend tightening the bottom one so that way you know what tightens
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up which it didn't do on this one so I can loosen it up and then as you tighten
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it it's supposed to twist and go into place
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so now it's holding in the top one I can actually see a twist so I can see if
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that one there just twisted that ones in place so these you can tighten up but
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we're gonna probably loosen those and adjust them in a little bit when we get
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the gantry level so I still like to tighten those up so it's ready to go
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next step is actually step five in the manual where we mount the aluminum
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extrusion to the bracket that has the extruder motor and the x-axis motor and
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there's two screws you got to access them it's kind of awkward you got to
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stick them in here and screw them into this guy what I recommend you do is you
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tighten the first one and then the second one you just have it loose
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because this rod will actually pivot and it's hard to see it here but if I mount
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it where it's gonna go right here and I can't put all the way into the screws
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there but you can see though just a little movement here produces a big
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movement over here and that's really critical because it has to be leveled to
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the bed you'll level the bed but you want this as perpendicular to this bar
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as possible so the easiest way to do that is to like I said tighten that
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first screw and then pivot this so the top of the extrusion is even with the
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top of this bracket and then once you have it tight what you can do is
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actually check it with a square put a square in here you can't get it all the
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way up to let it touch but you can eyeball it to see if it looks level and
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if it's actually a little bit high on this side that's okay because the hot
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end and there's gonna be another bracket that'll go on here
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so the weight of that will slightly say get but it's best to get that as
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perfectly flat as possible and then tighten that second screw would you have
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to go through this hole tighten it up and then you're ready to go once you got
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this assembled then we're gonna slide it over the bar and there's an eccentric
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nut right here on this wheel that we can adjust and if some loose or doesn't go
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on smoothly you can adjust it with that same wrench you adjusted the bed and
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just tighten it up now don't be afraid to tighten a little
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too much because this will wear in a little bit but it needs to be smooth and
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not loose and here's something else that the instructions don't show you once you
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put it all the way down check the front of your bed pull it all the way back and
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check the front of the bed if it's parallel to this bar now even though we
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put a square on this and try to square everything up this bar can still twist a
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little bit while you're tightening the screws and you'll see it now I'm going
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to show you here this is an absolute worst case where it's way off I
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purposely did that and then here's mine which is nice and square you see it's
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lining up with the screws so if you need to twist this just loosen the screws on
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the bottom here and then twist it to where it needs to be and tighten those
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screws and then recheck the squareness just to make sure that they can get
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thrown off we got it moving smoothly so now I'm going to rest it down on the
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switch you can hear it click and then I'm going to come in here now I'm going
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to tighten these screws on the motor we left them loose before now is a good
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time to tighten them up and you can eyeball the hole right here where the
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threaded rod goes and you should see it lines up with this but the best way to
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do it it just put the threaded rod end and it should naturally just fall into
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place if they're lined up it'll go right in and you're all set
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if it doesn't if it's hitting then you may have to shim the motor here or
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loosen this tea nut and it can slide a little bit left and right but mine's
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lined up pretty good because it goes right in now you want to make sure that
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the threaded rod is all the way into the coupling and then take the allen wrench
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and tighten this screw so the coupling is tight against that threaded rod and
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now the motor can lift the gantry step six they have you install the belt with
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the teeth going inside around the motor and I like to throw these aside I like
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to test the carriage and this is where it's nice to have the threaded rod in
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place because I can put this at any level but the assembly here the hot end
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needs to be smooth but not loose and there is an eccentric nut here that you
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can adjust to make it tighter or looser I got mine really nice no wobble so this
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is ready so now I need to take the belts and the bottom one just hangs but the
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top one goes inside the channel and then you want the brass to go down so it goes
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into the bracket and it goes down so you don't want to rub it against the metal
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here so that one's in place now you want to pull this ahead actually pull it back
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this wheel is going to go right over the top of that belt and I want to get it on
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then you can pull this and put the other one in its spot and now we're ready to
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install the end piece the M piece has a bearing and two T nuts similar to the
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switch that's over here so this just slides over the belt and then you put
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those T nuts right into the rail they should pop in place if you had them
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lined up and then what I like to do is just tighten the back one and make sure
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the T knot is spinning and gripping but don't tighten it all the way so it's
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gripping then take the smaller allen wrench and just come in here and just
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pry a little bit just to get a little bit of force on it so I grab it on both
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sides and just pull and then I tighten that first two nut now you want to make
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sure the belt is tight and also equally spaced on both sides so you may have to
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angle this a little bit so just move the bracket up or down just loosen this
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second one up or down to get that belt tight and also even on both sides so if
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this bracket is going upwards slightly don't worry about it you just don't want
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the belts rubbing now you may be wondering why I didn't follow the manual
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and I took you through these steps it's because I want to get you here this is
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really the core of your 3d printer you've got your upright which is
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perfectly perpendicular this arm is perfectly level it's even with the bed
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this is the core of your ender 3 3d printer you get this portion
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right and everything else is just support this really could be in the 3d
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printer this is like an ender 2 which had an articulating arm like this you
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can actually almost print with it like this and the LCD hookup the electronics
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in print away but we will add the other parts but that's why I wanted to
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assemble it this way so you make sure that these parts are perfectly square
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now let's finish the rest of the assembly so here's the second upright
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and this is the bracket that will go on the crossmember now is a good time to
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check this eccentric turnout here is it smooth and you can easily adjust it here
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make it smooth and not wobbly so I got mine set so now I can install this
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upright and this step Rex can you install three pieces at once one is the
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bracket that goes to the crossmember there's two screws one on the inside one
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on the outside and the one on the inside I tightened and made the bracket flush
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with the beam the crossmember beam the outer screw here is still slightly loose
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and then I put the upright in place with two bolts they're loose and I put a
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speed square to square it all up this a little bit smaller one that I use before
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and you want to make sure that the holes in this upright are on the inside
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there's one down here at the bottom and one right here I want to make sure
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those are on the inside because that's where the power supply goes and then you
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have this up or crossmember here and I've got these screws just finger tight
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into their slots will tighten these up last so the first thing I'm going to do
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is tighten this screw once everything looks point up then I'll tighten the two
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bottom ones and then we'll try the movement of this up and down and finish
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tightening these tops now I can move this real smoothly I don't feel any
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bumps or resistance other than the threaded rod spinning over here so I'll
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leave it right there and then I'll tighten these four screws this is what I
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call the silver screw section because you've got two silver screws that go
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through the upright into the power supply so the plug goes out the wires go
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in and then you have your LCD the wire connects to connector exp three it's
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keyed so you can only put it in one way but it's the third slot and then there's
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two more silver screws use the mount to the front here before you proceed you
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check your hot end if you push down on this white couple and you should be able
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to pull the PTFE tube out make sure there's no leftover plastic fill them in
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in there and then what you want to do is push this all the way down till you feel
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it bottom that means it's hitting the nozzle you don't want any gap between
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this and the nozzle I felt it hit really hard and then they
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give you these little blue plastic clips put one on there and that should lock it
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in place there's also a coupling they give you that screws into the extruder
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here at the back just hand tighten that because you'll take that on and off all
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the time when you're loading filament then take the PTFE tube stick it in
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until it goes all the way in you feel it bottomed out and then take a smaller
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blue clip put it on that coupling lock it in place the wiring is pretty
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straightforward you've got this big loom that goes to the hot end that just clips
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here onto the extruder and then you've got a Z connector for the Z motor that
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snaps in place here and then you have this multi connector cable it's got an X
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for the X switch which is in here so that goes in there and you might have to
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use the pliers to reach that and then there's an X stepper motor that goes
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under here and then the e or extruder that goes right into this guy right
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there the last connection is the power connection here these two just snap in
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place and then I'm going to tie strap that to the base I also use some tie
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strips over here I got one down here at the bottom one on the middle and one up
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top and brought this all the way up to make sure that it's not snagging
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anything and then the bed wiring just stays loose for the instructions I mount
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the spool holder on top with two screws and t-nuts
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I like to put it on the side with a 3d print as you see in some of the machines
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back here but to start just mount it as they have it on top now they do give you
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a small monofilament but I suggest you get your own filament spool put it on
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there and then feed it through the extruder I like to unscrew the PTFE tube
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it's easier to slide it through and then slip it on here that's why I said just
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hand tighten this and then once that's hand tighten then you can
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push the lever and push the filament little rest away through all the way to
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the nozzle depending on where you live you want to make sure you have the right
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voltage setting there's a switch here at sets of 230 if you slide it up 115 if
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you slide it down so in the US where I live I want to slide that down to 115 so
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I just use the allen wrench push the switch down if you're outside the US
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leave it up for 230 there's one more connection I forgot and that's the Z
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switch that's right over here snaps in place and now we're ready to power this
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up I put the bed material back on with the little clips lined everything up
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plugged it in and now we're ready to power up and then we'll go to the
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prepare menu and then auto home and that's gonna move everything and home
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the hot end and that'll tell us that the XY & z motors are all working and all
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the switches are working so I'll power it up it takes a few seconds if you
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don't see the LCD light-up check your connection it should be on the exp 3 not
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2 or the 1 and then you just click by pushing down on the button scroll down
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to prepare push on the button click on auto home and now you can see that it
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lifts it up a little the X is moving it's gonna hit and switch and stop the
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bed's moving back it's a switch to stop and now it's gonna go down hit the
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switch on the side and stop now if you want to move it to but the motors are
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all powered so you can shut it off or you can go disable under the prepare
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menu but I'm just going to shut it off after you shut it off then you can
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adjust the nozzle so it's just above the adjustment knob then take a piece of
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paper slide it underneath it and adjust the nava till the paper just barely rubs
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against the nozzle do that at each adjustment knob and you should be ready
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to print now I have a full video showing how to properly level your bed I'll link
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to it at the end of the video I also have some videos on using the cure
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slicer and some pure profiles linked in description below to help you get
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started I've also got some sample prints like my chap cube I hope this helps you
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get your under 3 assembled properly so you have success 3d printing right out